I Have Little Tomatoes!
I Have Little Tomatoes!
This is my first attempt at growing tomatoes here on the foggy Lost Coast (I am a few blocks from Humboldt Bay in Eureka.) I now have almost a dozen little green tomatoes on my Brandywine, Stupice, and Cherokee Purple tomato plants.
I understand that growing tomatoes here in the fog is a challenge but I am so far undaunted. I have several dozen plants all planted in 1, 2 or 3 gallon containers. Since I have not much idea what varieties if any will prosper (or even survive) in this microclimate I have purchased a variety of six pacs at local places through the spring. I am partial to heirloom, open pollinated varieties since part of my hobby involves creating a sustainable garden – one that can be planted year after year. Since I am growing for myself and a few friends, I also like indeterminate varieties, because they will provide, in theory, ripe fruit over the length of the harvest season, instead of a whole bunch right at once.
I have these varieties going: Brandywine, Purple Cherokee, Stupice, Black Russian, Eureka Mist, Early Girl, Orange Cluster, Oregon Spring, Sungold and Grape. My plan is to see which variety does well this summer and then to take cuttings and grow them over the winter to be ready for next spring. I will also try to collect a few seeds and sprout them next February just to see what happens. I do realize that they won’t be true breeding but I like surprises. Maybe I will come up with a new variety!
The larger plants have rapidly outgrown the 1 gallon containers so now I am transplanting them to 2 gallon pots, and I think at least some of them will end up in 3 or even 5 gallon pots to avoid becoming root bound.
At my age 59 container gardening is the way to go! No shovel work! Less weeding!
As a bonus I plant a few little things like radishes and carrots along with the tomatoes in each container so I gain the benefit of companion planting as well.
I am using the potting soil from Ace Hardware at the moment, it is $4.00 per bag of 1.5 cu ft. at the Ace in Eureka. The price is right but I think it is lacking a bit to be really good soil. It seems somehow to not hold moisture very well. The bottom of the containers become waterlogged while the top becomes dry and crumbly. Maybe next year after I have added some compost it will be better. (I plan to save the soil, compost it over winter with earthworms and reuse it next spring.) This moisture problem may have to do with my garden practice, perhaps one of you master gardeners can tell me.
If anyone wants a cutting of any of the above varieties (for free) hit me up (bill@eurekaworkers.org) and I will get you one within a few days.
July 10, 2009 at 12:43 pm
Hello Bill,
A few years ago I ran an experiment where I grew about 34 tomato varieties, including all the ones listed above except orange cluster. I also live in the same climate as you.
The brandywines are going to be difficult, as with most tomatos of that size. They simply do not have the time to mature. You will probably get a few but they may be pithy. Before the frosts harvest them green and bring them inside to mature.
Eureka Mist bears fruit well in our climate but for me it was very pithy and not the tomatoe experience I was looking for. Early girl and Oregan spring were a little better.
Cherokee Purple was an enjoyable tomatoe but again my yields were small. Black Krim was a better producer and an AMAZING tasting tomato which I would choose if I were to pick between the two. I actually did not grow ‘black russian’, but I think it may be black krim by another name… not sure.
The small cherry type tomatos are the clear winners in our climate. They mature quickly and are bountiful. Depending on the variety of Grape, I have had mixed results but the Sungold will please you until the frosts, and then for a few more days until the fruit ferment.
The next year I let some of the volunteer seeds grow into plants to see what the natural results would be. I also saved the Sungold seed. Some of the volunteers were ok, but I did not then them well so I had mixed results. The Sungold seeds were tended and were a dissappointment. All the seed were substandad compared to the original plant.
I also may caution against keeping clones alive over the six month off season. They will be very prone to infection and if they do thrive they will quickly become root bount.
Words of advice:
Never intentionally wet the leaves. Always water from underneath, infrequently and deeply. Tomatos almost want to be water stressed. Too much water during fruiting can even split the fruit.
Blight has always been my worst enemy, and it is epidemic on the east coast this year, moving west. Spray with a copper fungicide if you see no signs but if you do see signs of Blight remove ALL affected material and use a stronger fungicide. Chloro*****ine (I forgot the middle part) works well.
Don’t let any leaves touch the dirt. Trim them up 6-8 inches and put a mulch down to protect them.
Do not touch the tomatos when your hands are wet and do not cross contaminate infected plants.
South facing for full sun, with good airflow to keep disease down, and if you can, plant them near a large thermal mass to retain heat into the night. Most tomatos set fruit at a 58 degree night time temperature. I plant mine in black potting soil bags directly from the store. They roots fill the entire bag by the end of the season and the bags hold heat into the night.
Stake and tie your plants early. Many of your varieties will get quite large and will topple over and touch the ground soon. Never let them rest on the ground or have impeded airflow.
I think that is the summary version of my tomato experience. This year I am growing a Better Boy and a Sungold, with the goal of both the get as tall as possible. They are about 5 feet tall and 36″ diameter now, included the 12 rased bed. I just ate my first tomato of the year last night, it was a sungold. Yummy.
I am also trying a few new varieties this year. One is called Ildi, the other is a new chocalate cherry, and a golden rave, which is related to Sungold.
If you have any questions or just want to share tomato tales email me.
July 10, 2009 at 12:46 pm
Oh, don’t re-use the soil on or near the tomatos next year. Put it in another area of your property and avoid potatos in it as well. It will be infected with fungal spores and disease by the end of the year. I used my spoiled soil to build a raspberry hedge on a rocky fence line.
July 10, 2009 at 2:06 pm
Hey thanks a bunch Jason,
I knew there were some experienced gardeners here. My biggest plants are only about 3 ft tall right now, and my biggest green tomato is the size of a silver dollar on the Stupice.
I will follow your advice reusing the soil. I am aware of the blight. I will keep you informed.
have a peaceful day,
Bill
July 13, 2009 at 7:14 am
I prefer growing in containers as well, much easier to look after everything. My father would turn in his grave, but if you get results whats the problem. Sounds like it worked for you.
July 15, 2009 at 3:33 pm
Watch out for shore flies this time of year. Those little bastards will ice your whole tomato crop in no time by spreading TMV and Fusarium and all kinds of bad shit. That “mosquito bits” B.t.i. stuff works good, just a little will go a long way in containers. A bottle of this stuff should be $10. If you find it for more, don’t buy it. If you find it for less… where did you go?
If you see even one of these things, use the B.t.i immediately and use it again every week to kill off any slow hatching eggs.
July 15, 2009 at 4:39 pm
Thanks Mr. Nice,
I actually have been using this product for about 5 weeks now. I found it for about 10 bucks. As long as I don’t confuse it with Bacon Bits I will be fine. LOL.
have a peaceful day,
Bill